All Things Leather

Not all leather is created equal

As we all know, leather is a beautiful natural material, so its surface structure inherently will not be completely uniform and will include blemishes and imperfections. Animals live outside, roll around on the ground, rub up against fences, get bitten by insects, well you get the picture. When the hair is removed and the hide is processed, all evidence of an easy or rough life shows up as scars, scrapes and imperfections.

The question is how does that become the beautiful items we use and how is the quality ultimately determined. Because although all leather starts from there, it is not all created equal. How is that you ask? The short answer is that quality comes down to the type of leather and the finishing method. That is also why we focus on long-lasting, American-made leather handbags that wear in, not out. Explore our current collection.

Well there are two main things to take into consideration: the grade and the finishing process. Both of these will affect how durable it is, how the leather feels, wears over time and the best way to care for it. I will break down all the different leather we use, what we call it and how to care for it below. But first you have to understand what determines a quality hide (hint, natural “imperfections” often signal stronger, more authentic grain). See our Leather Care Guide. Our approach to sustainability is simple: make goods that last for decades with proper care.

Although there are several different grades of leather, I will only talk about the top two: full grain and top grain, the two types of leather you will see most often in quality handbags.

THE GRADE OF LEATHER

Types of leather for handbags, explained.

This determines the strength of the leather. You have probably heard me use this term full grain leather, time and time again. But what does that really mean?

This simply means that the leather has not been “corrected” to remove any marks, which may sound odd but there is a reason for this. Since the entire thickness of the skin is used and because all of the oil-absorbing properties and original characteristics remain intact, this leather is stronger and more durable than the others. If the hide is mostly blemish-free, the very best way to use it is full grain, prized for strength, breathability and natural character.

You may pay a little higher price for products made with full grain leather, but the item will survive the rigors of age and travel much better than other grades. We proudly only use full grain leather, handcrafted in Chicago, USA, in small batches, because longevity is the most honest form of sustainability.

Which brings me to the next grade level, which is top grain. Of course, that is typically where the confusion starts, because top grain sounds like it should be the best, and you might be wondering why I am even mentioning it. Well, because it is probably the most used leather in handbags, where a pristine department store look is desired. But it is the second-highest-quality leather because that top layer is removed to eliminate surface imperfections and start with a fresh top surface for a variety of finishes to be applied. So the result, at the end of the day, can be a cleaner looking leather, yet it is much weaker and less natural. In practical terms, it looks uniform and accepts pigments easily, but trades away some strength and breathability compared to full grain.

Historically, we have also offered suede (the split underside of the hide) and true hair-on cowhide. We have phased these out in current production; a few legacy pieces may appear in our Sale Vault.

Quick comparison

• Full grain leather: strongest and most durable; visible natural grain; develops a rich patina; ideal for heirloom-quality bags.
• Top grain leather: lightly sanded or corrected; more uniform surface; takes finishes well; less durable than full grain.
  

THE TREATMENT OF LEATHER

Now to the good stuff… during this process, resins, waxes, pigments and dyes are applied to the grain of the leather in order to impart the desired color, give brilliance, texture and other physical characteristics, and the finish influences feel, durability and care.

We separated our leathers into three groups based on a few different factors: Honest Hides (Aniline leather), Finished Leather (Semi-Aniline) and Vintage Leather. Aniline keeps the natural grain most visible and buttery; semi-aniline adds a light protective layer for color consistency; Vintage is designed to pick up character for that lived-in look. Below you will find our leather color names so it will be easy for you to connect the dots.

You can also shop our leather care products. You can click the links to see all bags available in that particular leather group and find finish-specific tips in our Leather Care Guide so your bag lasts for decades.

Quick FAQ

Is full grain leather best for handbags? For strength, breathability and a patina that improves with age, yes, full grain is the gold standard.

Are your handbags American-made? Yes, our leather goods are handcrafted in Chicago in small batches. Explore our current collection.

How do I care for different leather finishes? See our complete Leather Care Guide for simple steps by each finish.

Love a story and patina? This is your girl.

OUR HONEST HIDES INCLUDE:

• True Aniline: Merlot
• Sanded Aniline: Wicked, Woodstock (PAST: Bluebell)
• Pull-up: Black Sand, Whiskey, Stormy Grey

All of these leathers are aniline dyed in the drum for deep, vibrant color. After that, each type follows a slightly different process.

Aniline leather: The most natural look and feel. It shows marks and scratches, develops a rich patina, and loves regular care. With no added pigmentation, only the best hides make the cut.

Sanded aniline: Lightly hand sanded for a subtle two-tone effect. A final touch of silicone creates an irresistibly soft hand and uniquely rustic look.

Pull-up: Finished with transparent waxes and oils. When bent or stretched, color lightens in those areas, which creates the signature pull-up effect. Minimal built-in protection, so basic maintenance helps.

Care for Honest Hides: Use our quality waterproof spray and a light leather dressing as needed: Leather Care Treatment

Want easy-care, everyday durability?

OUR FINISHED LEATHER (SEMI-ANILINE) INCLUDES:

Rosarito Beach, Free Love,  Noche, Stone Temple,  (PAST: Seabreeze, Mai Tai, Cobblestone, Rosewood, Blue Bayou, Ivy League, Sandstone, Sahara and more)

These leathers have more uniform coloring than full aniline because the dye includes a small amount of pigment. If the leather feels slightly coated, it is likely semi-aniline.

Semi-aniline: Soft to the touch, resilient for daily life. The light protective layer helps resist most scratches, cleans more easily than aniline, and reduces fading. It will not develop the same patina as aniline and is generally more water resistant.

Care for Finished Leather: Wipe with a soft cloth, use a neutral cleaner sparingly, and condition occasionally. See the Leather Care Guide for finish-specific tips.

Crave lived-in from day one?

OUR VINTAGE LEATHER INCLUDES:

• Distressed: Happy Trails, Cape Cod, River Rock (PAST: Darkhorse)
• Aged: Aquarius (PAST: Olive Branch, French Vanilla, Wooden Tiki)

Distressed leather: Aniline dyed, then treated with oils and waxes for a dramatic crackle effect. Improves with age and gains personality over time.

Aged leather: Semi-aniline dyed for a light layer of protection. A wax crackle and subtle sheen create an aged look with a bit less maintenance than fully aniline options.

Care for Vintage Leather: Distressed finishes like leather cream for replenishing and protection. Aged finishes prefer light cleaning and occasional conditioning. See full instructions in our Leather Care Guide.

I hope this helps clarify between look, feel and wear of all the different types of leather we use. Not sure which finish fits your life? Tell me where your bag goes most days - work, travel, weekends - and I’ll point you to the finish that will love you back.

But as always, I am here to help guide you in the right direction!